"I’ve chosen this little restaurant because it’s mousse au chocolate has been mentioned as transcendental and unmatched. Then there was a review of high praise by Alex Lobrano, a known long-time authority in Paris eating. Plus, it’s open on both Sunday and Monday – where...else do you find that in Paris? To get the mousse thing out of the way – it turned out to be very good, but not of my favorite texture (which is firm, not creamy). But everything else was as superb as it was unpretentious and honest in both ingredients and cooking, deeply traditional, but not heavy or overwrought, as it is often the case these days. First came a glass of wine. I’ve picked a Chenin Blanc, of no vintage and from a rather obscure village in the Loire. The waiter warned that it was somewhat oxidized – well, bring it on, the French manzanilla! The wine was wonderful, indeed Jerez-like, and going very well with the meal For appetizer, I had a half of Breton lobster. The smallish critter was roasted with corral butter, and served with a leafy salad. It was perfect, deeply cooked through, sweet and extremely flavorful Pintade de Dordogne, the guinea fowl, was my choice of the main course, served with a heap of chewy spelt. This was a real revelation – I never suspected a whole flock of these birds could have so much tender, delicately flavored and moist dark meat, let alone a single one. The serving was huge, but leaving even one morsel was not an option from the start Amarante is not a place you go to for ambiance – a very drab, musty little space on a non-descript street in the Arrondissement – but a short walk from Bastille, so not at all hard to get to. The menu is available online, very large and versatile. Expect to spend about euros per person, or more, depending on quality and quantity of your wine choices"
